Sam Adams Dark Depths

Yesterday was kind of chilly and grey, so a dark and robust beer seemed appropriate.  I grabbed a Sam Adams Dark Depths, which is a Baltic IPA according to the label:

Vittles:
Baltic Porter
7.6% abv
55 IBUs
60 SRM
254 cal.

Score:
Appearance: 9/10
Aroma: 21/25
Taste: 33/40
Mouthfeel: 8/10
Style: 4/5
Drinkability: 8/10
Overall: 83/100

Impression:
It's surprisingly malty and tasty.  It seemed much more like a Baltic Porter than an IPA, if a wee bit on the hoppy side.  The beer itself, though it looks fairly opaque in the picture, is actually a crystal clear mahogany with ruby highlights.  This beer also had a substantial head, which settled slowly into a thin disk.  The aroma is dominated by roasty, toasty malt notes, and the hops take a back seat.  I could smell citrus, floral, and pine notes in the nose, but more hops flavors were apparent on the tongue.  The citrus became more like grapefruit, and in addition to the floral and pine notes, I could also taste a sweet, earthy, peppery flavor that was delicate and mild.  High levels of carbonation gave this beer a rich, creamy, medium-bodied mouthfeel, and the aftertaste was in interesting combination of roast malt and grapefruit, but it wasn't overpowering.

I'm not sure that calling this beer a "Baltic IPA" doesn't do it a bit of a disservice.  First, I was expecting something hoppier, with a grain bill that doesn't take center stage -- enough maltiness to support a wicked hop punch, but not so malty as to tip the scale away from the hops.  I didn't find much in this beer that would encourage me to see it as an IPA, and I think folks who see "IPA" on the label might be a little disappointed.  This is a very good beer, but it doesn't scream hops.  The malt profile of a Baltic Porter is certainly up to the task of supporting a richer, more assertive hop presence than this beer has.  As a porter, it's delicious.  As an IPA, it lacks.  Sam Adams should just call it a Baltic Porter and not try to force the melding of BP and IPA.

Cheers!